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Batman Returns is a strange animal.
I think a lot of people were surprised by the tone of the movie after having seen the first Batman in 89. It seemed to have even more of that now trademark Burton influence to it.
Anyway I'm not sure how I feel about it. I thought the way they did Penguin character was an interesting concept, but came off as far too crass. Catwoman was downright nuts, but in a likable way. Bruce Wayne had an odd quirkiness that let Keaton's personality shine through in a way it never could in the first film.
The whole movie is rather fantastical and has a tone not typical of a superhero film, that's for sure.
My favorite line in the movie is from Bruce Wayne - "You know what, I mistook me for somebody else."